New Tastes From the North Fork

The North Fork’s expanding roster of producers has two promising new entries, Clovis Point and Medolla Vineyards. Both have just released their first vintages. Reflecting a money-saving trend, neither has built a winery. John Leo made Clovis Point’s four wines at the Premium Wine Group, a for-hire Mattituck winery. Eric Fry over saw Medolla’s single release at the Lenz Winery in Peconic.

Clovis Point hopes to open a tasting room in a renovated potato barn at 1935 Main Road, Jamesport, by July 1. Medolla’s wine is sold through its Web site.

One of Clovis Point’s two managing partners, Hal R. Ginsburg, a lawyer from Queens who owns a home on the North Fork, said it has 7. 5 acres on Main Road planted in Merlot and cabernet franc ; it leases 10 acres of cabernet franc, merlot and syrah nearby. Peter Gristina is the vineyard manager. (The other managing partner is Nasrallah Misk of Queens, a building contractor)

The Clovis points of the name are sculptured stone spear tips attributed to Paleolithic ' Indians, the so-called Clovis people, who may have inhabited the North Fork 10,000 years ago.

Denise Medolla, a United Airlines Captain, and John Medolla, an Aviation-Maintenance Instructor for United, trace their interest in wine to their Italian forebears, particularly Mr. Medolla’s Neapolitan maternal grandmother. The Medolla’s, who live in Centerport, own no planted acreage but bought others’ North Fork grapes, most recently from Sam McCullough, a private grower who also manages Lenz’s vineyard. They say they may eventually establish a winery and vineyard.

Medolla’s 2002 merlot ($22.99) is earthy, gutsy, sultry and all-around satisfying.

Clovis Point’s 2004 regular chardonnay ($13.50) – pearlike, sleek and fresh, with a floral bouquet – is a winner. Its 2004 barrel-fermented chardonnay ($22.50), a little richer but more subdued than the regular version, is a trifle buttery. Clovis Point’s 2003 merlot ($18.50) is smoky, soft, light and shows a touch of licorice. Its 2004 Vintner’s Select merlot ($27.95) is a crowd-pleaser – stylish, bursting with fruit.

Information: www.clovispointwines.com and (631) 722-4222; www.medollavineyards.com and (631) 334-3059. Written by Howard Goldberg at The NY Times